Tag: archaeology

  • The Curious Re-Emergence of an Ancient Irish Tuath

    Indiana: Balloq’s medallion only had writing on one side? You sure about that?
    Sallah: Positive!
    Indiana: Balloq’s staff is too long.
    Indiana: Sallah: They’re digging in the wrong place!
    Raiders of the Lost Ark, (1981)

     

    County Sligo, and the old Borough Corporation of Sligo town are roughly 400 years old, and both are creations of the British Empire and its nascent colonial enterprise in Ireland. As part of the Imperial project of extending centralised control across the country from Dublin, the counties were created as brand new entities on top of the earlier Irish Gaelic political territories. These older territories were called tuatha (countries). The tuatha that made up what is now County Sligo are shown on the map accompanying this article.

    County Sligo was created by joining together the Gaelic tuatha of what was then known as Iochtar Connacht (Lower Connacht). This was made of five ancient tuatha. Each one had its own lord and public assembly. Each had a small army and system of law courts under the Irish law known as Fenechus (Brehon law). These tuatha in turn were arranged in a hierarchy, with the chief one in this area being Cairbre Drom Cliabh. So the local overlord at the time of the conquest was the chief of the O ‘ Conchobhar Sligigh (O’Conor Sligo), a family related to the O ‘ Conor kings of Connacht.  The chiefs of the other tuatha were Ua hEaghra of Luighne, Mac Donnchadha of Tir Olliol and Corann and Ua Dubhda of Tir Fhiacrach. Each of these territories was renamed as well, they were called baronies and became electoral divisions under the British administration. Luighne became Leyney, Tir Olliol became Tirerrill, Tir Fhiacrach became Tireragh and so on.

    Sligo Borough Council had been set up in 1613 as part of the reorganisation of territories under the English conquest. It extended in a circle one mile from the Market Cross. Some of the boundary markers still exist along the sides of the road. The county was an earlier creation, around 1585,  of Sir Henry Sidneys “shiring” program under the Surrender and Regrant scheme intended to Anglicise the country.

    The new county and borough structure obviously facilitated British rule from Dublin and the collection of taxes for the new administrators. But, the newly named counties served one other very important purpose. Simply by creating an entity with a new name, they disconnected the people from the earlier history of the country. Because the counties remained in operation after independence, this effect is still in operation today.

    Under the new reality, the old chief families in every branch of Gaelic society were marginilised. Their history went back in many cases as long as the tuatha themselves which is about 1, 600 years, far longer than the counties that came after them. However their pedigrees and claims, no matter how ancient, were now worthless because they referred to territories that no longer officially existed.  And so by a trick of the pen and the mapmakers artifice, Irish people became strangers in their own land.

    As knowledge of the old territories faded with the loss of the Irish language in the area, so did the knowledge of how the land had been organised and connected to its Gaelic past. The placenames are the key to that connection, and without them we are blocked from understanding the ancient history of our area. For example, Cairbre is named after Cairbre Mac Neill, son of Niall of the Nine Hostages, and Tir Fhiacrach from Fiacra a half brother of the same ruler and one of the three Connachta from which most of the ruling tribes of Connacht traced their descent. That it was from this part of Connacht that the Ui Neill and Connachta dynasties expanded across the northern half of Ireland. is actually witnessed by the names of the territories.  And others open connection to other histories and mythology, such as Corann, which is named after the harper of the Tuath De Danaan, who was granted the land after the second battle of Moytura. There are endless connections of this sort. You get the picture.

    However, it is not only written history and mythology we are disconnected from. The physical remains around us are also cut off from the context in which they were created. This means they become mysterious and are subject to archaeological investigation as if they were prehistoric,  even though we have extensive records available about their histories. This is a bizarre effect of using the wrong political boundaries to explain Irish history. To put it simply, we are using the wrong maps. To explain history, we need to understand the context of events, and the tuatha provide the context of most of Irish history. Therefore historical tourism is also suffering from this problem, as lack of information and awareness of the reality of Gaelic Ireland causes endless confusion as to how to interpret our past. We must be aware that every historic castle, church, monastery, ringfort. holywell and numerous other historic sites existed and were created within the tuath system, and therefore their placement and use is only understandable in relation to this political reality.

     

    IMG_0728
    The ancient tuatha from which County Sligo was made. They lasted officially until the 17th century. The districts are at least 1,500 years old, and probably much older.

     

    Which brings me to the present. History goes in cycles they say. When the government abolished the borough council of Sligo town, rolling it together with the county council to create two districts in County Sligo. The northern one is now called the Sligo Borough District. The aim, at least on paper, was to create a flatter hierarchy of local government and prevent duplication of services, although the open conflict between Sligo Borough Council and the central government over the Eastern link bridge can’t have helped.

    However, when the new administrative boundaries were drawn something quite remarkable happened. The new Borough District is an almost exact match for the ancient tuath of Cairbre Drom Cliabh.

     

    1369973407
    Map of County Sligo showing the new Sligo Borough District in yellow. It has basically the same boundaries as the tuath of Cairbre Drom Cliabh.

    This has come about because the older territories reflected geographical and social realities that have not changed over the centuries, and because of their organic development, they represent these realities more accurately and subtly than the counties, which were imposed from the top down by a centralised and alien administration in Dublin.

    Whatever the reason for its re-emergence as a political unit, it represents an opportunity to experimentally begin to revive the connections to the history of this part of Sligo. The way forward is simple. For the purposes of historical tourism the tuath name and maps should be used in all historical literature that deals with sites that predate the 17th century. This means most of our historic sites should be interpreted in this way. Signs should also mark the boundaries of these historic tuatha, and inform people when they are entering and leaving them. Of course, post 17th century historic sites, like big houses etc, should rightfully be set in their particular context, which is the English County system as we know it now.

    By stripping away the colonial era layer, thousands of years of history, myth and culture will be accessible in a way that has so far eluded us, and the re-appearance of an ancient Irish tuatha, albeit accidently, shows that there are practical reasons why this would be beneficial, not only in Sligo, but across the whole country.

    © Dylan Foley 2017
  • The Sligo Mills at the Glasshouse

    In 2005 excavations took place on the site of the present Glasshouse hotel. The site had been that of the Sligo Mills, owned by the Pollexfen family in the late 19th and early 20th century. The Pollexfens were WB Yeats maternal family.

    Mills on the site appear to have been there at least since the 16th century, but probably much earlier and there may have been even earlier mills associated with the castle since the 13th century.

    The milling interests owned by the Pollexfen family became a limited company in 1913 and was thereafter known as Messrs. W. & G. T. Pollexfen and Co. Ltd. The Sligo mills were located at Victoria (Hyde) Bridge and by 1926 the production output was one hundred tons of maize per day. In 1927 the Sligo Mills were closed.

    The mills were an important part of the industrial history of the town, and were employers of large numbers of people. Carters, millers and numerous dock workers were involved in the business. Maize was imported to be ground here.

    The mills played a colourful part in the history of the town, not always without controversy, becoming involved in the 1913 Sligo dock strike. During the strike, a particularly violent strike which involved much rioting in the town, Patrick Dunbar, a striker, of Riverside, who was employed at Pollexfen’s Mills and was a married labourer and member of the I.T.G.W.U. was assaulted and later died from his wounds during fighting between the strikers and labourers shipped in to break the strike. This led to reprisal attacks on Pollexfen’s clerical workers, when strikers broke the windows of their offices. Hundreds of police and soldiers were brought in to the town to protect property.

    The mill was converted into a cold-storage facility in the 1930s.

    The Mills

    The mills were tidal mills, with the water at high tide supplementing the flow of the river to fill the millpond and drive the huge wheels used to power the mills. This means the mills stopped twice a day at high tide when the flow of the river effectively stopped. The millpond was upstream, and formed by the weir which extends across the river just upstream from Hyde bridge. A large part of the weir was broken down in the 1960s during the construction of the Silver Swan hotel on the site, the rubble forms the “rapids” near the bridge. This was to stop it from pushing the flow of water under the building as it was designed to do. The weir was supposed to be rebuilt, but that has not happened yet.

    Archaeology

    The mill was powered by three large undershot waterwheels, one external mounted to the side of the building, near where the modern side entrance to the hotel is. Two internal wheels of c. 3.8m in diameter were fed by two brick arched headraces. Two arched tailraces exited between Fish Quay and Martin’s Quay to the north. The internal race had been extended in the later 19th century to reclaim ground for the construction of ancillary mill buildings. The millraces were filled in with rubble in the 1960s during construction of the Silver Swan but survived largely intact at the time of the excavation.

    The most remarkable finds were of at least seven millstones in various states, some of which are pictured here. These millstones are 4 and a half feet in width. These type of composite millstones are not very common, as they tend to fall apart and are lost once their iron binding hoop disintegrates. They were of a French type, and most likely imported from there. their composite nature allowed them to be more easily transported and assembled on site. One was in excellent condition, still bound by its iron retaining hoop. They are an important reminder of Sligos industrial heritage, but the lack of a regional museum means they cannot be displayed.

    Other features found included large curved wooden sluice gates that survived in situ. These were slatted timber and at least ten feet in height and were painted with red lead that had preserved them.

    Also surviving were three axle-bearing blocks with associated pit-wheel pits and a lay shaft pit (see photos), all built in ashlar (cut stone) masonry. Finds from the backfill of the pit-wheel pits were fragments of a metal axle collar. The axle blocks still contained grease from their last use.

    Grooves cut into the stone by the wheels when they went off centre were visible scored into the masonry, showing the power of the wheels when in motion.

    To the north of the mill building and also surviving were the near-complete structures of Fish Quay and Martin’s Quay. These stone masonry quays were built in irregular courses of squared roughly faced blocks and survived on site to a depth of 3.1m. The quays were linked by a triple-arched bridge, built off the bedrock, with two stone ashlar piers and three red and yellow brickwork segmental arches. The bridge may have been a later 19th-century rebuild of the original wooden bridge. The bridge, and sections of quay, although in good condition were demolished to make way for the underground carpark..

    Sligo_Mills
    1875 map showing the intact weir that guided water under the mill buildings, the tailrace flow exited on the other side between Fish Quay and Martins Quay. The small cutstone bridge that was found is visible also between the two quays.

     

    Two large metal casings for Leffel turbines were installed at the south-east corner of the mill as a source of power. The turbines had been removed, but remaining were the circular horizontal turbine housings, 1.54m in diameter, bolted into a wooden floor in the submerged turbine room.

    At the very lowest levels, above the bedrock, remains of possible wattle structures were encountered. these were in poor condition and could not be investigated due to time constraints.

    Postscript: All features surviving on the site were destroyed during the construction of the Glasshouse hotel complex. This shows the problem with granting permission for underground works prior to investigation of a site.

    An attempt to retain the millstones for Sligos heritage was made, but the stones could not be transported to the current museum site because of limited access for machinery. They were subsequently supposed to be incorporated into the development, but with the financial collapse they were abandoned for a time. The lack of a museum in Sligo means they could not be retained and are currently believed to be in private hands.

     © Dylan Foley 2017

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  • A Castle on Teeling Street?

    A Castle on Teeling Street, Sligo

    The Discovery

    In 2007, during routine extension works, archaeologists struck a stone covering an old drain right under the present Weekender office on Teeling street. When the stone was lifted an unusual type of wine bottle was found, known from its shape as an onion bottle. These onion bottles were made between 1640 and about 1720 and are very rarely found intact. So it was decided to extend the excavation to see what else might be there. The bottle turned out to be sitting beside a massive mortared stone foundation 3 metres (10 feet) in width which is shown in this picture.

    Many of the buildings on the corner of Abbey St. and Teeling St. appear to use this as their foundation as it runs east and north directly under the modern buildings. At bottom right of the picture the modern wall can be seen to be sitting on similar masonry.

    The Castle

    The enormous width of the foundation suggests a fortified building, probably of a type known as a tower house. These tower houses were extremely common in Ireland all through the Middle Ages, it being a rather unstable place for anyone who had anything to protect. Lynchs castle on Shop street in Galway, now an AIB bank, is a good example of an urban tower house familiar to many Sligo people.

    Some tower houses had projecting corners, called flankers, to allow defenders to fire along the wall faces, and this may be what we are looking at in this picture. This is the only definite evidence of a castle so far found in Sligo.

    Who built this castle?

    In the 19th century Woodmartin described a castle set back from the corner of Abbey and Teeling streets, and mentions it had been found earlier in the century during the digging of a drain, just like this one. He believed it belonged to the O’ Creans. More recently, historians have identified it as Jones castle.

    But the truth is we cannot be sure. as there was in fact more than one castle in this area. An eyewitness description of the fighting in Sligo in the 1640’s mentions that  “the enemy possessed of the Lady Jones her Castle, which was nigh adjoyneing to Andrew O’Crean his Castle”. Clearly, there were at least two castles right beside each other, and so without further investigation we cannot be sure which one we have found.

    There are two possibilities. This castle was built either by the O’ Creans or Jones, families with very different origins, both of whom played a prominent part in the history of Sligo.

    The O’ Creans

    The O’ Creans (O’ Croidhen, Cryan) were an old Gaelic family from Donegal who were both merchants and religious in occupation. They were the most important medieval merchant family of Sligo, mentioned twice as wealthy merchants by the Four Masters in 1506 and in 1572.

    The Jones

    Lady Jones was the wife of Roger Jones, an Elizabethan soldier who served during the Nine Years War. He arrived in Sligo after the war in 1602, when a new English administration was being set up in Sligo.

    Connections

    Now, when Jones arrived in 1602 the town lay in ruins and so he appears initially to have used Holy Cross as a court-house. Soon after and nearby, he built his castle and Jones became constable of the new jail and also served as the first high sheriff and justice of the peace of the county. He had a garrison under his control and was responsible for the imposition of English law and order.

    And so the castle he operated from on Teeling street is the direct ancestor of the modern Garda barracks, the solicitors offices and courthouse all of which, in both function and location, are descended from Roger Jones early English administration in the county. The post of high sheriff was only abolished in 1922

    Meanwhile, in the Abbey the elderly Dominican friar Macduane was quite alone in Sligo as his life drew to a close in 1608. To those about him he confidently foretold that another Dominican would come to Sligo in time to give him the last sacraments. And sure enough, Daniel O’Crean, a young man fresh from his studies in Lisbon, arrived to comfort the old priest in his final moments.

    An Irish college had been founded in 1593 in Lisbon. The O’ Creans as merchants were heavily involved in the wine trade and through their connections with Galway they traded directly with France, Spain and Portugal, England and Flanders, importing wine, iron and salt, and spices such as saffron, in exchange for fish, hides and cloth. Sligo was not as remote as we sometimes think.

    Now, in an unusual twist, the two families became connected in the 1620’s with the marriage of the merchant Roebuck Crean and Jones niece Elicia and so they went into business together with Roger running a shop beside his house.

    The bottle probably arrived the same way as Daniel O’ Crean, through the port.  These bottles normally contained wine, but were often used as decanters on tavern counters long after the original contents had been drunk. There is mention of the lower floor of Jones castles being used as a tavern sometime around 1700. Perhaps the Town & County club continues this tradition today.

    The castle appears to have been pulled down shortly after the 1798 rebellion. After it had been demolished, someone had carefully placed the bottle under the stone but of course why, when and by whom is unknown. But no doubt the person who placed the bottle was aware of the history and left it to point us in the right direction.

    Postscript: The foundation has been reburied as there was no attempt to allow for it to be displayed. The current whereabouts of the onion bottle are unknown. Without a local museum, it could not be retained in Sligo.

  • Why Reinstating Access to Maeves Cairn May be the Only Way to Preserve It

    An updated version of an article that first appeared in Sligo Weekender in September 2014.
    The images above are of multiple new paths developing on the north side of the cairn which was traditionally pristine and unused for ascending or descending when the old path up from the south was still in use.It is particularly vulnerable to slippage as it was never bedded in by use.

    Back in 2007, it was suggested in a local newspaper article that the cairn on Knocknarea was suffering wear and tear due to people climbing up it as they had done for centuries.  The well worn path that people had traditionally used is on the south side of the cairn, here the stones are well bedded in and are not prone to fall. The groove that this path forms up the face of the cairn was mistaken for recent damage by the writer. This led to the erection of a sign forbidding people to climb the cairn. But the cairn had in fact not altered in centuries.

    In the 1990s the cairn was surveyed by archaeologist Stefan Bergh of NUIGalway and the measurements were compared to earlier ones by antiquaries more than 2 centuries ago, he concluded the cairn was the same size and shape and that no substantial collapse or alteration had happened in the meantime. It is often true that well meaning attempts to make things better, often lead to results the exact opposite of those intended. Since the erection of the sign, the cairn is now being damaged at an unprecedented rate.

    The fact that only on top of the cairn is a 360 degree view of the surroundings available means the temptation to ascend the cairn is strong. Now, of course, human nature being what it is, some obey the sign and some do not. But the tendency amongst those who do climb the cairn is now to go round to the north side of the cairn out of view of the sign and ascend from there. This side of the cairn was never bedded in, and consists of loose stone. As the photos show, a new path has developed where there was formerly none, and the loose stone is falling and threatening to cover the north marker stone. This is not the only new path forming, just the worst one.

    To interfere with peoples ancient pattern of movement is always a dangerous idea. When all were allowed up, a kind of rough equilibrium was established between those who brought stones and those who took them away. Now,  a new pile of stones almost 6 feet high is developing on top of the cairn which should be a shallow dish shape. Also the tradition of bringing a stone up the cairn is no longer functioning as these were traditionally cast on the sides, maintaining the general profile of the cairn.

    I’m afraid that if this takes its usual course, damage caused by an ill advised and unnecessary interference in the first place, will lead eventually to a call for no access to the cairn at all in the future. An outcome which I think is totally unnecessary and draconian, as well as denying people the wonderful experience of the view from the top.

    The solution is obvious. Access should be reinstated strictly on the traditional path, which should perhaps even be subtly reinforced. It should of course be made clear that only that path is to be used both to ascend and descend, and the rest of the cairn may then be roped off.

    A monument such as this is a dynamic thing, it relies on the interaction of people to preserve it, and it is extremely ironic that it is through well intentioned efforts to “preserve” it that the cairns equilibrium is now threatened. Pressure has been mounting through increased access to the mountain and increased tourism on the Wild Atlantic Way. The future status of this monument needs to be thought about very carefully, and state instincts to block access are not necessarily in the best interests of the cairn or tourism.

    The cairn survived five thousand years under the original arrangement, the people of Sligo had looked after it successfully for all that time, and if we want it to survive another five thousand I hope this is done as soon as possible.

    Contact: [email protected]

    Background

    Here is a link to a cached version of the original article in Sligo Weekender that caused the erection of signs prohibiting access for the first time in 2007. No study had taken place on whether damage was occurring, or what would be the best method to ensure the preservation of the cairn. The action was taken merely on the opinion of a single individual.   Damage to Cairn

    On September 4th 2014, the detrimental effect and threat of the access ban to the physical integrity of the cairn was noted in a letter to the Weekender by myself, of which the article above is an updated version. It was predicted at that time that the damage would get rapidly worse, as the dynamic equilibrium established under local tradition was upset by an ill advised intervention by the OPW, working off well intentioned, but incorrect, assumptions. Unfortunately this has turned out to be true. Compared to the ease of erecting signs prohibiting something, and the tendency to assume this is “doing something” it may seem counter-intuitive, but it is necessary to grasp that access to the cairn actually ensures its preservation as a living monument, whereas blocking this access ensures the exact opposite, its destruction and eventual sequestering as a ruined monument.

    Click to Enlarge

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